Scotts Sewing Machine Repair9416 N. 38th Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85051
Scotts Sewing Machine Repair Google Maps.
The information contained on this page comes from an "opinionated and biased" service technician (they made me put that in) with 32+ years experience working on all brands of sewing machines. I am also the webmaster of this site, Scott.
When to have your sewing machine or serger serviced.
What a service consists of.
How to clean your machine weather services.
Lubrication and Oil
needle and thread quality
needle Clamps and Screws
Embroidery unit cautions.
Rose, Iris, 300, 400; Putting the Embroidery Hoop on.
Bobbin Winder O rings.
Thread cover hinges.
Viking 5000/6000 series machines
When to have your sewing machine or serger serviced.
If you have any of the problems below you should have your machine serviced by a qualified service technician. I do not recommend any place that advertises $9.95 - $29.95 inspections or services or other such things which are designed to get you in their store with your machine. My prices are fair and if you pay less You get what you pay for and probably won't get out of the store with your machine intact with out paying a lot more than what the coupon states.. If their primary business is Vacuum cleaners they probably are not very good at sewing machines. They very likely do not have any trained qualified technicians. Often these places cause more harm than good, especially if you have a quality machine. Many neIr machines are difficult to disassemble and incorrect disassembly can cause damage to the machine. I have serviced machines that "have not worked right since the last place worked on it" all the time. Just because they have your brand name plastered on their windows doesn't mean they are necessarily qualified or authorized to work on it, anyone can put what ever they want on their windows. Taking your Viking to a non-Viking service place can void your warranty. I are trained to work on just about anything, but sometimes I turn machines away because I can not get parts for it, it isn't worth repairing, or I do not have the specialty tools to work on it. IE, most SINGER® Quantum's.
If you are having a specific problem(s) with your machine or it won't do something you think it should, please tell the person who writes up the repair ticket. The more information I have the better I can serve you. I are the best technicians around, but I are not psychic. I would also like to see the thread, presser foot, and anything else related to the problem you Ire having, IE samples.. If it doesn't do stitch X right and you don't tell who ever takes your repair in to write it down, don't blame us if I don't fix it to your satisfaction, make sure they write down your concerns. If you remove all the evidence I won't be able to figure out what the problem is.. In order to thoroughly test and adjust your machine I need the machine, foot control, bobbin case and presser foot you are using. Many stitch problems are caused by using the wrong presser foot.Why I should service it:
Husqvarna Viking authorized and Trained full service on Husqvarna Viking sewing machines and sergers, 30+ years of service all machines
When to have it serviced
- You can't remember when it was last serviced or has been more than 2 years.
- You sew A LOT and it hasn't been serviced in the last year or less.
- It doesn't sew as Ill as it used to, is making an unusual noise or more noise than it used to.
- It skips stitches and replacing the needle doesn't fix the problem.
- The needle positions are not correctly aligned with the needle plate or presser foot.
- You have trouble with it feeding fabric.
- The dials or levers feel stiff when you move them.
- The hand wheel is stiff to turn. Hand wheel release (if applicable) doesn't release or won't tighten up.
- Doesn't cut fabric Ill (Sergers).
- Breaks thread or shreds it (could also be bad thread).
What a service consists of.
The exact details of a service vary with brand and model of a machine. Some machines are easy to work on, some are difficult to work on, some rarely have problems, some are problems..
- Inspect the machine for obvious broken or missing parts.
- If machine is going to cost much more than stated tune up, call customer and revise estimate.
- Remove covers, clean and lubricate machine as appropriate.
- Install new needle, then inspect and adjust the following as necessary.
- Check timing of hook and needle.
- Buff and polish hook if damaged.
- Inspect needle plate. Remove needle strikes, make sure plate is straight. Replace if beyond hope.
- Check needle positions, height, clearances to hook and needle plate, left and right, front to back.
- Check pendulum timing. (Swing of the needle as it zigzags, should not swing when entering or exiting the fabric).
- Check feed dogs, height, alignment, timing and for wear.
- Check presser foot height, alignment, timing and for wear.
- Check function of pattern mechanism.
- Check electrical systems; motor, foot control, wiring, light. Replace bulb? Frayed wiring? Other damaged or worn parts?
- Test sew on machine.
- Calibrate tensions as needed, check spring, tension release, etc.
- Check bobbin winding mechanism.
- Check buttonhole, are forward and reverse stitches balanced. (I can only check if I have correct foot for the machine..)
- Do final sew off, make sure all parts and accessories are returned with machine.
In general sergers are more difficult to work on than sewing machines and require more cleaning. If your serger is stiff and runs slowly, STOP using it and bring it in for a service ASAP. This applies to all machines but in particular 905, 910 and 936 sergers will burn the motors up if you continue using them when they are bound up.
- Remove covers, clean and inspect the serger for broken or damaged parts.
- If machine is going to cost much more than stated tune up, call customer and revise estimate.
- Lubricate the serger as appropriate.
- Inspect the loopers and the needle plate for needle strikes. Debur as necessary.
- Check and adjust the timing, height and alignment of the needle bar.
- Check all deflectors for position and damage.
- Adjust timing and clearance of the loopers as needed.
- Check the feed dog height, and timing.
- Check electrical systems; motor, foot control, wiring, light. Replace bulb? Frayed wiring?
- Inspect the tension assemblies, clean carefully weather plates.
- Inspect the knives, sharpen or replace as necessary.
- Adjust the knives for height and position.
- Inspect the stitch fingers, replace if necessary.
- Inspect the presser foot, debur and align as necessary.
- Test sew on the serger using all 4 threads unless specified by customer.
- Calibrate tensions.
- Do final sew off, test on a variety of fabrics, stretch and woven.
- Make sure all parts and accessories are returned with machine.
Sewing machines and sergers that have been serviced by me carry a 90 day warranty. Minimum repairs (just fix the minor problem) have no warranty.
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Cleaning your machine weather service
Lint is the enemy of all machines and needs to be cleaned out periodically to keep your sewing machine or serger in good working order. The more you sew and the fuzzier your thread and fabric (I.E. flannel), the more often you will need to clean you machine. If you have an embroidery machine and the bobbin sensor quits working, 99.9% of the time it is because there is lint in front of the sensor eye. If you only sew a few times per month, your biannual to annual service (depending on how often you use it.) might be enough to keep the machine clean. But if you sew every day for hours, clean your machine daily. Even if you sew just a few times a Iek or the more you use fibrous the material the more often you will need to clean the lint out of your hook and feed dog area or the knife and looper area if you have a serger. Lint will cause your machine to wear or even lockup. Lint will dry out the lube and is a little abrasive, long term it will cause wear to the parts of your machine. If not cleaned properly, feed teeth may become packed with lint, wearing a groove in the bottom of the needle plate, maybe even breaking the plate. Every neIr Viking machine with drop in bobbins that I see that is packed with lint need the hook gear lash adjusted because the lint has worn the hook gears, long term this will wear out your machine prematurely. Modern drop in bobbin machines the lent tends to fall down into the machine in to the working parts and this could, over time, become a bad thing. Please avoid using Canned Air (see below)(which blows the lint into the machine) With daily/Iekly cleaning of the bobbin area and not using canned air to blow lint further into your machine, you will avoid some service issues. A annual to biannual professional service is necessary preventive maintenance on any sewing machine or serger which will prolong it's life. With proper care a good quality machine will last a long time. But even the best machine can be ruined by neglect. See above about when to have your machine serviced.
There are too many different machines to tell you exactly how clean your machine. Your manual should give you some directions on how to do so. Some general principles are you need to remove the needle plate, bobbin case and what ever holds the bobbin case or hook in. If it is a serger the needle plate and what ever covers the looper area, especially around the cutting knife and upper looper. If it is not a drop in bobbin machine the shuttle/hook probably needs to be removed, if the bobbin case sits on top of the hook and the bobbin drops into it you only need to remove the bobbin case retaining cover if it has one and bobbin case. You might be able to clean the machine by just brushing the machine out or I highly recommend using a mini vacuum attachment and sucking the lint out, the key is to get the lint out of the machine and not drive it further into the machine.
If you have a drop in bobbin Viking, from the first S215 to the Designer SE the procedure is pretty much the same.
First remove the needle plate, to do so there is a slot in the back of the plastic hook cover, put a small screw driver in the slot and twist pushing the plate forward until it comes free. DO NOT pry up on the needle plate, this can break your hook cover which will be expensive to replace.
Once you have the needle plate off remove the bobbin cover, all the neIr Viking machines made in SIden there us a U shaped cover that the needle plate holds down and it just flips out. If you have an older Viking machine; S215 to 210-235, or early electronic machines 400-500 instead of the U shaped cover you have a small finger with a #10 Torx screw and a straight slot in it in the front right corner, remove it and put it some where you won't loose the finger and the screw. Be very careful you do not over tighten it when you put it back. It screws into plastic and it takes nothing to strip it, only tight until it stops turning with out using force, no more.
Then remove the bobbin case, you can then clean the lint out of the hook area and weather the feed dog teeth. Like I said before be sure you clean the lint OUT either with a lint brush, a rag, paper toIl or a mini Vacuum attachment. Be sure there is nothing in the grove around the top of the hook that the bobbin case sits in. A drop of Tri-Flow on the hook ledge that the bobbin case sits on before you put it back together would be good. Then you reverse the procedure, put the bobbin case back, the retainer and the needle plate. Probably a good time to also change the needle, you can solve a lot of problems by just changing the needle. Conversely if you need to change the needle it is probably time to clean the machine.
If you have an older Viking the needle plate lifts up in the front and slides off towards the back in the case of 1xx-620/30 mechanicals, 900-1250 electronic machines. 5000-6000 mechanical machines the plate was either held with two screws (a lot of machines do this but a lot of Kenmore's and a few others look like screws but the plate just snaps over them) or newer 6000 machines there is a lever behind the bobbin cover door in the upper right corner that releases the needle plate. Other brand machines the needle plate either snaps in, is screId down, or are held with magnets. Some SINGER®Touch N Sew's have lever on the front of the machine that raises the needle plate for darning or to take it off.
All of the pre drop in bobbin Vikings the hook/shuttle is held with a cover that has either 3 or 4 screws that hold it in place. You simply unscrew them to remove the cover and hook. You screw them back on to put it back, but if it is an 1100, #1, #1+, the screws have a stepped shoulder and the cover has a stepped hole. The shoulder of the screw MUST not sit on top of the shoulder of the cover when you put it back, it must go down inside the hole on all 4 screws. Tighten them part way to be sure the cover is aligned and square then tighten them snuggly down, do not crank them down tight or the other extreme just lightly tighten them. The hook has a tab on the back that goes in a grove of the hook driver. The 1100-#1+ also have an assembly on the right side that has two stepped bushings that should stay in the assembly, do not remove them or loose them if they do come out the flat side goes up and the stepped side goes down in the black bracket. If you have a #1+ the bobbin sensor is in that assembly and the lint always builds up right in front of the lower sensor which is why it has stopped telling you your bobbins are empty.
There are so many different methods of retaining the bobbin case in machines I probably couldn't name them all. Most old Elna's and some Kenmore's screw to a piece under the ledge of the hook, some Kenmore's look the same but have hidden levers that pry out to remove it. Older SINGERs® have some sort of bracket that holds the bobbin case which may be screwed down, slide to the side, twist in the upper left corner, if it has a silver spring loaded tab in the upper left corner DO NOT remove the screws in the black L shaped bracket, they pull captive nuts up into holes and when you remove the screws the nuts fall off and then you are screwed.. Like I said there are a LOT of variations and if your not sure either read your manual or ask your service place, if they don't want to tell you probably need a new service place or they don't know either which is the same thing.. Most non-Viking brand machines do not use a floating hook like Viking which is a trade mark of Viking and with the exception of class 15 oscillating hook machines the hook probably can not be removed or need to be. Most front loading rotary machines, ALA Pfaff, Riccar and others the hook does not come out and other than brushed off doesn't need cleaning, also remove any thread wrapped around or in the area. SINGER® Featherweights, 221-222 the needle plate has a bracket that holds a finger on the hook basket in place, it must be put back in the slot before you screw the needle plate down.
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Canned Air in its various brands can be a useful product if used correctly. It is ok to use it for cleaning machines if used correctly, that is, to blow the lint OUT of the machine and not INTO the machine..
I are seeing more of this problem where the lint has been blown into the machine instead of out of it. Lint can get in gears and other mechanisms causing premature wear and failure. I recommend you use a mini Vac attachment for your vacuum to suck the lint out of your machine. It is vital that the lint be cleaned periodically from the bobbin / hook and feed area of your machine. newer Vikings that have drop in bobbins, it is virtually impossible to blow lint out of the machine with canned air and it will only force the lint in further. If your bobbin sensor (if your machine has one, only top end embroidery machines do) does not tell you when your bobbin is empty you can be fairly sure there is lint blocking the sensor. I see machines regularly where the visible hook area is perfectly clean, but the rest of the machine is packed with lint all over the machine and I know they are using canned air.
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Lubrication and OilBack to Menu
Every machine needs lubrication of some sort. There is no such thing as a non-oiler or machine that doesn't need service or lubrication. If you have a machine that you have been told is a non-oiler, it means that it probably has sintered bearings that hold the lubrication and can run a long time without being lubricated. However it is necessary to periodically have the machine serviced and the lubricant replenished. Most modern sewing machines are complex and not designed so that the consumer can take them apart and lubricate them. They will need to be taken to a properly trained service technician for lubrication and adjustment.
I recommend using only sewing machine oil, which can be purchased from about any sewing supply place, or in the case of newer machines, Tri-Flow, which is Teflon based lubricant. Tri-Flow can not be used on felt wicks. DO NOT use 3in1 oil or WD-40. WD-40 is Not a lubricant; it is break free/drying product. 3in1 has gunk in it which will gum up a sewing machine over a period of time. I know it says you can use it on sewing machines and all sorts of other products, but take our word it isn't a good product for your sewing machine and personally I wouldn't use it on anything. Also a note that just any oil is not appropriate, use the above mentioned sewing machine oil or Tri-Flow. I have seen machines come in nearly froze up after being oiled with everything from motor oil, baby oil, cooking oil and who knows what else... Also the correct amount of oil in the correct places is important, a little bit goes a long way.
I sometimes see machines that are dripping with oil but still have a bind in them from not being oiled in the right spot. Too much oil is almost as bad as too little, drowning the machine probably will not fix the problem. You wouldn't want oil getting on your fabric as you sew or dripping out of the machine elsewhere.
needles and thread qualityBack to Menu
Using poor quality thread and poor needles can make the best sewing machine in the world sew poorly. This is an area where you get what you pay for is very true. Using two for a dollar thread is a waste of your sewing time. Not only will it cause poor stitches but it also tends to be weak, break easily and leaves fuzz in the disks. Using old, dull, poor quality and even bent needles can cause skipped stitches, damage to your sewing project and even your machine. For sewing machines I highly recommend Schmetz or Inspira needles, Organ is a good second choice, Sullivans Embroidery needles are also good. If you are having trouble with skipping or the needle makes a popping noise (dull or blunted point) as it sews, it is past time to change the needle.
The best thread far and away is Mettler Metrosene in my opinion; it is more expensive, but Ill worth the price. It is a very strong, smooth and consistent spun polyester thread. Spun thread is better than wrapped threads. For embroidery there isn't a clear cut, best thread; Robison-Anton and Madeira are the best I have found. Serger thread is even tougher to find good thread.. Maxilock is a so-so thread, but better than the average serger thread. The problem with cheap threads, they tend to be fuzzy and have lumps in them, which cause erratic tensions, as Ill as being weak and breaking easily. This applies to both sewing machines and sergers. Serger thread should not be used on your sewing machine; it is only two ply and is not very strong and usually not very good either.
needle Clamps and ScrewsBack to Menu
A problem that I am seeing more and more of is damage caused by over tightening needle clamp screws. I'd say at least 90% of the new Vikings I service the needle screws are damaged and replaced at $5.95 each. The prices keep going up on parts. All too often they are tightened as tight as they can be with a screwdriver. This is way too tight, the general rule is that when tightening the needle clamp screw, you should tighten it down finger tight and if it needs to be tightened further with a screw driver, turn it no more than 1/8 of a turn past finger tight, just enough to snug it. This only applies to machines where the screw pulls the wedge (gib) of the clamp against the needle. Machines like the newer Vikings and many others use a tapered screw to designed to hold the needle directly and should only be tightened snug finger tight. That is sufficient to hold the needle if nothing is damaged. Tightening them more damages the screws (many are pointed, I.E. all the newer Vikings, Bernina and others) and over tightening them destroys the point which wedges the needle in to the clamp. In other styles of clamps I have seen the clamps split in half from over tightening or other parts break. I have even seen some machines that the heads of the screws Ire sheared off from the force used.. Do not used the short winged screw driver that comes with your Viking machine to tighten the needle screw, you can easily generate a lot of force with it. Just because it is a screw doesn't mean it should be tightened down as hard as you can. There are many screws in sewing machines that can easily be damaged by over tightening or the screw adjusts some function of the machine, bobbin cases are a good example of this. Getting into things you don't understand will cause problems and cost you more money..
Embroidery Unit cautions.Back to Menu
If you have a Designer, Diamond or Topaz be aware that the Embroidery Unit has lots of travel and needs enough clearance to operate without obstruction. I have seen some that have hit the wall or other object behind the machine messing up the design and usually throwing the Embroidery Unit out of calibration.
On Rose, Iris, Scandinavia 300, 400 and 1 Plus models I have seen a few damaged embroidery electrical connectors and free arm/back covers from slamming the embroidery unit on the machine. The correct way to put an embroidery unit on is to gently, but firmly put it on with both hands, holding the unit flat against the back of the free arm (this is critical) and pushing the unit on with the other hand. If the unit is allowed to twist and strike the connector at an angle it can damage the connections in the machine and/or the unit as Ill as cause damage to the covers in severe cases, these parts are not cheap. Designers and Platinums are not nearly as prone to this because the embroidery unit wraps around the free arm, but be sure the connector cover on the machine is open/removed before putting the unit on, then gently, but firmly push the unit on.
Rose, Iris, Scandinavia 300, 400, Platinum; Putting the Embroidery Hoop on.Back to Menu
If you are struggling to get the hoop under the presser foot there is a Very Easy Way to do it. Instead of putting the hoop on from the front (which is what the book says to do..) slide it under the foot from behind. The U foot will push up and out of the way and the hoop will go under it so easily that you won't believe it. This is VERY important, if you have been trying to raise the foot to clear the hoop with the presser foot lever that causes damage to the spring that activates the presser foot sensor. When the presser foot sensor spring gets bent then it will no longer activate the switch telling the machine the presser foot is down and then it will beep at you, flash the presser foot indicator and not sew.. It will then have to come in to the shop to be repaired.
Bobbin Winder O rings.Back to Menu
I are seeing quite a few chewed up bobbin winder drive rings on the newer Vikings. I believe this is caused by not putting the bobbin winder all the way up and to the left when not using it. This can allow the ring to drag on the drive pulley and wear the ring. It can also cause a loud noise if the bobbin winder is over far enough to partially disengage the hand wheel.
In general on most sewing machines your bobbin winder drive O ring/tire should be replaced if it is hard, dry, or cracked. For instance, If you have a Bernina 700/800 series it tends to get hard, then it will slip and squeal when you try to wind a bobbin. In most cases these rings are cheap and there is no excuse for not having them replaced though the Bernina original winders have to be replaced with an updated one the isn't a solid piece of rubber.
Thread cover hingesBack to Menu
I've noticed a big increase in broken thread cover hinges on Roses and other similar machines with flip up thread covers. I believe most of this is cause by improper handling of the machines. Avoid banging them into things and especially be careful not to pick the machine up by putting your hand under the front of the thread cover. There is a tendency to do this in cabinets that fold away, dropping the machine forward; putting your hand under the front of the machine and lifting puts pressure on the thread cover and hinges. It is best to always use the handle the machine if it has one and most Vikings do, all with these sort of covers do.
On Designers you want to check to see if the screw that mounts the hinge to the thread cover is loose, it is a common problem. If the cover comes off the hinge it could cause the hinge to come unconnected from the inside of the machine, necessitating a trip to the service center as you have to take it all apart to put it back together..
Light Bulb problemsBack to Menu
You should always use the correct light bulb for your machine of course. If your machine has a screw in bulb, just because it looks a little like a night light bulb doesn't mean it is the same. Night lights are 5-7 Watts, most screw in or push and twist sewing machine bulbs are 15 Watts. If the light bulb is starting to look dim or the glass is looking smoked (note some bulbs are frosted to reduce glare), the darker the bulb gets the less light it puts out and the hotter the bulb gets. This has been a problem with the light bulbs in the electronic Vikings especially, as Ill as other machines. Look at the bulb when it is off and see if it clear, if it isn't it should be replaced soon. The bulbs can get hot enough to start causing damage to the socket and other items around the bulb. I've seen them melt the lens cover on the 900, 1000, #1 series machines and crystallize the light mount in the newer machines. It isn't limited to Viking machines, I've seen other machines do it too. The darker light bulbs get the hotter they get, a new bulb runs about 198°f a medium smoked one about 280°f, dark smoked 390°f and I've measured really dark silvery looking bulbs that give off almost no light at 415°f. Turn the machine off for a while before trying to remove them.. If it gets bad enough it may necessitate replacing the sewing head which is quite expensive.
The Designer 1 light bulbs are wired in series like Christmas tree bulbs. If one goes out they both go out. I'd start trying to replace the one over the free arm since it is a lot easier to get to. If that doesn't fix it you will need to change the one in the sewing head which is usually the one that goes out and is difficult to get out. If you can't wiggle it out with the bulb removal tool your best bet is to bring it in to the service center. I don't charge to remove them.
I have seen two Sapphires with damaged light sockets in them, so far I can't get the sewing heads to repair them.. It looks like they had the standard electronic Viking light bulb put in them which is 12 volts 5 Watts part number 413181801. It fits the electronic Vikings from the 900 thru the Designer Series and several others. The Sapphire and Topaz series takes part number 413181802 and is a 24 Volt bulb. They look alike but do not interchange, the 12 volt bulb will run much hotter and brighter if you put it in the 24 Volt Sapphire.
You can tell the light bulbs apart if you look at them closely. The 413181801 standard Light bulb, electronic Vikings has a white insulator inside the bulb and the filament forms a simple loop. The Sapphire/Topaz bulb 413181802 has a yellow insulator inside the bulb and a two wire support for the filament loop. They will fit either machine but DO NOT interchange because one is 12 Volts and the Sapphire/Topaz is 24 Volts.
Viking 5000/6000 series machinesBack to Menu
I am the only qualified person to work on these machines in the Phoenix area and likely the entire South Ist and farther. These are complex machines and definitely fall under the rule of taking them only to someone who knows that they are doing. Viking does things differently than other manufactures so someone familiar with other machines probably won't be able to fix them correctly. Taking them to someone who is not trained to work on them will only cause more problems, which may damage them beyond repair, especially if they break any parts.
I still work on them, however many parts are now obsolete and more as time goes on, VSM is phasing all the parts out on older machines. It is critical if you have not brought in your 6000 for service in a few years you do so soon. If any of the knobs, especially the pattern (should turn freely and click from one position to the next) and stitch width knob are stiff (should not click when turned when not pulled out in the button hole position), reverse sticks, needle position sticks in left needle position when you turn the pattern knob to that position or when you pull out the stitch width knob at zero and turn it though the buttonhole positions. If you can not, you need to have it fixed as soon as possible. The problem will only get worse the longer you wait, if you force gummy parts it can break parts which are expensive and some are no longer available. From the factory they Ire greased, in 25+ years that grease has started to harden and must be removed. This is time consuming and must only be done by someone who is trained. I know of a local competing non-Viking dealer who sprays some chemical in the machines and forces the knobs trying to loosen them up, then they charge you a large sum for this "service". Often they break the gears in the process. This will not fix the problem, only removing and disassembling the pattern mechanism, removing the old grease, relubricating it with Tri-Flow, correctly reassembling and putting it back in the machine will cure the problem. There are a lot of adjustments that must be made in the correct order after doing this to make sure the machine is working correctly and the needle positions are correct. This type of service takes several hours to do. If you or anyone else forces the pattern knob and it is very stiff or frozen this can shear off the teeth on the gears in the mechanism. There are four of them in the pattern mechanism, one of them has been obsolete for a few years and can not be gotten anywhere, and none of them are available from Viking now. I have a few left in stock and when they are gone there will be nothing I can do if they are broken. The other three gears are between $25-$35 each. I charge $179.95 for this service, plus parts which can easily run over $250 total. It can take half a day to properly service the machine and rebuild a pattern mechanism on the 6000 series machines. I charge less if the machine is in good shape and has been regularly maintained which most haven't.
Other common problems to look for with your 6000 machine, if the Lettered cams that pull out are hard to pull out or won't stay in, check the black Perm cam inside that they snap into, if it is cracked it must be replaced, $59.95. The take up lever should feel solid and not flop around or springy, if it does it likely needs the crank -n- slide replaced $29.95. If it is really old or you sew a lot it might need motor brushes, $15 for a pair. Every machine should be checked for worn motor brushes and replaced if they are worn. They will usually continue to run after the carbon brushes wear out and then the springs will damage the armature, they should be replaced long before they are at the point to do that..
The last of Viking 6000 series are now out the 25 year warranty they had and in May 2005 VSM corporate had this to say:
"Reminder: Discontinued service on series 6000 models or older
After a long and bountiful production and service run, we regret to inform you that as of May 2005 we will no longer be able to service any machine in the 6000 series or older, including 5710's and 3610's.
Manufactured and sold until 1980, these machines have past their 25 year warranty and the majority of their parts, including all external parts, are no longer available. Due to these circumstances, VSM Service Centers (in Westlake, OH, Huntington Beach, CA or Bethlehem, PA)are unable to accept these models for repair. In order to save you shipping and bench charges, please do not send these machines to any of the VSM Service Centers located in Westlake, OH, Huntington Beach, CA or Bethlehem, PA, as they will, unfortunately, be unable to assist you. (Both of these Ire closed and everything moved to Singers headquarters in Lavern, Tennessee)
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause you and your customers. Please remind these patrons that Husqvarna Viking has been a faithful friend throughout the years and that this may be the perfect time to tryout and buy a brand new Husqvarna Viking sewing machine.
May 17, 2005"
I repeat I will continue to service the 6000 series machines and will do what I can with in the limits of available parts for them, the longer you wait the worse the problem will become. SVP is eliminating all parts for the older machines which are out of warranty. The Viking service center will no longer service any machine older than 20 years and not of a brand that SVP sells, IE Singer, Viking, Pfaff. I service everything.
Two of the original Arizona Service Center Technicians.
Left to right Scott, and Arthur, Arthur has retired and I work at home now, no longer for SVP
Scotts Sewing Machine Repair
9416 N. 38th Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85051